This picture grabbed my attention because it’s a reminder of a time when “Ginger” was a common name in America. It’s not a good or bad thing, it’s a Social Trending thing. It seems to me like there’s a lot of Sarahs and Mikes in my generation. In this photo’s time, maybe there were a lot of Gingers and Ralphs.

Clever Boy! [Photo - B&W - LIFE Magazine] Photo Link

Holly’s Kitchen Cabinet Blackboard

Seeing that photo reminded me that I hadn’t made a Designer post about our Kitchen Cabinet Chalkboard. Holly came up with the idea for a steel cabinet-side that could be drawn on with chalk, and hold refrigerator magnets . I wasn’t too sure at first; sounded like a dusty, chalky mess. But her ideas are usually good so I measured the cabinet, designed a sheet steel piece with screw holes in SolidWorks (CAD program), had it plate laser-ed out and powder coated. Then I brought it home and Holly painted it again with a couple of coats of blackboard paint.

We also bought some coarse-threaded screws (because some of our cabinets have particle board & veneer sides) and she paintd the heads with the same blackboard paint so they would blend in. This is done by pushing them into a cardboard box so they can stick straight up and be painted, then allowed to dry without getting paint all over a table top or work surface.

Kids with Steel Magnetic Kitchen Cabinet Blackboard design

Kitchen Cabinet Magnetic Chalk Board

Jack at the Chalk Board

Jack Dropped the Chalk

Here Comes Ginger

Ginger & Jack, Chalkboarding

Ginger & Jack, Blackboard Writing

Jack & Ginger, Chalk Boarding

Pushing and Shoving, Chalkboard

Ginger Screaming, Jack Pushing, Chalk Board

Ginger at the Chalk Board

Someone needed a high performance engine part shortened by 5/8″, so I measured the part with a micrometer and sketched it in SolidWorks so I could reduce the height of the piece for it to be produced in a CNC milling machine.

Fuel Pump Mount - Original Part

Screenshot Tutorial:

If you’re familiar with SolidWorks, you’ll be able to get the gist of how I modeled this part from the screen shots. You’ll be able to pick up on when I was sketching, when I extruded a solid or a cut, when I inserted a plane or a fillet, etc. If you are working on a project and think this model can help, but you’re unclear on a step, comment or email me and I’ll try to help.

Finished Model

3D CAD Modeling - SolidWorks - High Performance Engine Part - Fuel Pump Mount - 1

3D CAD Modeling - Solidworks - How To - Fuel Pump Mount Close Ups - 1

3D CAD Modeling - SolidWorks - High Performance Engine Part - Fuel Pump Mount - 2

3D CAD Modeling - Solidworks - How To - Fuel Pump Mount Close Ups - 2

3D CAD Modeling - SolidWorks - High Performance Engine Part - Fuel Pump Mount - 3

3D CAD Modeling - Solidworks - How To - Fuel Pump Mount Close Ups - 3

3D CAD Modeling - SolidWorks - High Performance Engine Part - Fuel Pump Mount - 4

3D CAD Modeling - Solidworks - How To - Fuel Pump Mount Close Ups - 4

3D CAD Modeling - SolidWorks - High Performance Engine Part - Fuel Pump Mount - 5

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Holly has been making t-shirts lately and I got to help with this last one, a tribute to Eddie Murphy’s “Party All The Time” record, made for Matt Hayden.

Eddie Murphy - Party All The Time - Album Cover

The Finished Product

Eddie Murphy - Side Profile

The Hunt for Side Profiles

Holly wanted me to find a side profile pic of Murphy because it’s easier to make 1 color images that way. This was surprisingly difficult to do (finding only this one small pic on Google Images), so I tried a different idea and found this photo from Reuters:

Eddie Murphy - courtesy of Reuters

I then cropped it and uploaded it to Picnik to “posterize” it.

My settings on Picnik under [Create tab>Effects>Posterize] were “7 colors, 0% detail, 0% fade”.

Picnik website - Posterizing - 7 colors - 0 detail - 0 fade

I ended up with this:

Eddie Murphy - POSTERIZE

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This has happened to me several times. I’ve got a computer running Windows with a Realtek brand Networking Adapter (the ethernet port where you plug your internet cable into), and I’ll install a Windows Optional Update (a driver for the adapter), and then my computer can’t connect to the network anymore.

The Windows Update screen looks something like this, although this screenshot does not show a Realtek Networking Controller Driver

Fortunately, I have multiple computers, so if one isn’t able to surf the web for troubleshooting purposes, another is. So if this happened to your one and only internet access point, you’ve probably found this wonderful blog by using a neighbor or friend’s connection.

The Fix

1. Download the “Windows Diagnostic Program” utility from Realtek’s driver download page, unzip, and install.
2. Then run the tests and play around with it. I’m not sure which feature fixes the problem, because the few times I’ve had to use it it doesn’t seem to be doing anything, then I suddenly notice my little networking icon doesn’t have the red “x” on it anymore and it’s connected to the network.

Go here to download the Windows Diagnostic Program.

Realtek Software and Driver page - Download Utility to Fix Issue

Realtek Networking - Windows Driver Update - Download Utility to Fix Issue

The Realtek utility program is pretty stripped down, so you’re not going to get lost in it. Just go through, expand the navigation tree (the little “+” next the the highlighted “General” next to the light bulb icon), and start pushing buttons like “test” and “refresh” and hopefully it works for you after 5 or 10 minutes. Here’s a screenshot of what the utility should resemble on your computer.

Realtek-Diagnostics-Utility_1-Courtesy-Softopedia.com

And if that didn’t work? Try this:

It’s likely that Windows doesn’t like your ethernet adapter in “auto” mode.

Next Page for instructions >>

There are a lot of “How To Install an RSS Reader on Your Facebook Wall” instructional posts out there, but most have become irrelevant since Facebook redesigned their look and feel in late 2010. This post is relevant as of June 2011.

This post just shows how to get started on a Facebook “Fan Page.”

After that, go to this page to see how to do the rest of the RSS setup, and start on Step #5.

1.)  Go to your Facebook Fan Page, click on “Profile”.

Facebook Fan Page Blog RSS Import - Click on Profile Tab

2.)  If you don’t have a “Notes” link on the left side of your screen (under the profile picture), click “Edit Page” button.

Facebook Fan Page Blog RSS Import - If No Notes Tab, Click Edit Page Button

3.)  Click the “Apps” link on the left side of screen.

Facebook Fan Page Blog RSS Import - Click on Apps

4.)  Click on “Edit Settings” under the Notes section.

Facebook Fan Page Blog RSS Import - Edit Notes Tab App

5.)  Click on the option to Add Notes Tab to your FB Fan Page.

Facebook Fan Page Blog RSS Import - Add Notes Tab

6.)  Click on Additional Permissions Tab and make sure there’s a check in the “Publish Content To My Wall” box.

Facebook Fan Page Blog RSS Import - Leave Check in Notes Permission Box

7.)  Now you should have a “Notes” tab or link on your Facebook Fan Page.  Click it, then go to this page for further instruction, and start on Step #5.

Facebook Fan Page - Blog RSS Import - Getting Started

UPDATE: FACEBOOK DECOMMISSIONED THIS FEATURE.

No more auto posting of your RSS feed to facebook. Sorry. I now use Tumblr to accomplish this. See my Facebook page to get an idea of what that looks like. If you want to know how to do this, write a comment on this post requesting a tutorial, and I’ll try to get one out soon.

There are a lot of “How To Install an RSS Reader on Your Facebook Wall” instructional posts out there, but most have become irrelevant since Facebook redesigned their look and feel in late 2010. This post is relevant as of June Mid-August, 2011.

This tutorial also applies to sending your Feedburner feed, Google Reader Shared Items, or most other RSS & Atom feeds to Facebook’s Wall – not just blog posts.  FB will warn you that if you’re sending too much stuff to your Wall, they may have a problem with it, including disabling your account.  Don’t ask me what “too much” is, they don’t specify.

There are 2 Ways I’ve Done This:  Facebook Notes, and Friend Feed App

For the Friend Feed version, I’ll make a tutorial for it if anyone comments a request for it.  For the Facebook Notes version of RSS Wall posting, here’s the tutorial:

1.)  Go to your Facebook, click on “Profile”.

Facebook Profile Tab Button - Top Right

2.)  Click on “Notes.”

Facebook Notes Button - Left Under Profile Picture

3.)  Click on “Write a Note.”

Facebook Write a Note Button - Top Right

4.)  Click on “My Notes.”

Facebook My Notes Button - Left Under Profile Picture

5.)  Click on “Edit import settings” link.

Facebook Edit import settings Link - Left Under Profile Picture

5. UPDATED) Sometime around mid-August 2011, FB changed their template, so here’s how you find the “Edit import settings” link:

UPDATED STEPS - Write and "Submit" a note if you don't already have any, otherwise click "View Full Note"

UPDATED STEPS - After writing a note or clicking on View Full Note on an existing note, you will see the Edit Import Settings link available

Or, if you already have written notes, and they show up under “My Notes,” then click on “View Full Note” link.

UPDATED STEPS - If you already have notes, click on View Full Note on an of your existing notes, you will see the "Edit Import Settings" link available.

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If you’ve never done this before, this post will provide a list of tools, tips, and considerations on how to install a submersible sump pump and pipe the water out of your home.  Do it yourself & save money (but not time).

I bought a new sump pump recently and had never installed one before.  I wanted to hard pipe the installation, but had never glued PVC pipe together.  I looked on Google to see how long I would have to wait after gluing before I could turn the pump back on, but found precious little info regarding the subject.  So I figured this would make a welcome post for a few of you DIYers out there.

Sump Pump: Submersible vs. Pedestal

On my local Public Radio station, I heard a trusted home improvement expert say that pedestal pumps aren’t as preferable as submersible pumps.  I didn’t even know what a submersible pump was.  He also suggested at least a 3/4 horsepower model for most homes, although after doing some research, I don’t see why a quality 1/2 HP submersible model won’t work for most.  When my pedestal sump pump went on the fritz soon after, I went to the hardware store to pick up a new pump.

Submersible Sump Pump

Pedestal Sump Pump

What’s the difference between these pumps?

Pedestals are less expensive than submersibles.  They’re louder because the motor sticks up above most sump holes, making it difficult to put a lid on the sump hole.

Pedestals typically wear out sooner because the motor is air cooled, whereas the submersible has cool groundwater surrounding it to dissipate heat through.

Do you see the long float switch on the pedestal pump with the little guide-arm in the middle?  Yeah, that gets bent easily, and then the float gets stuck either up or down, both of which renders the pump useless.

Some people only care about lowest price, which is silly.  For the rest of us, the price details as I’ve found them are as follows:

A good submersible, 1/2 to 3/4 HP, 4600 Gallons Per Hour, Lifetime Guarantee (yes, lifetime) should run between $160 and $200 on sale.

A pedestal should be somewhere between $75 and $120.  In other words, submersibles are twice as much as pedestals, but worth it in my opinion.

Got the Pump.  What Else?

Click here for a printable PDF Shopping Checklist to take to the hardware store.

Submersible Sump Pump Install Shopping List

The Usual Stuff:

Sharpie Marker, Hammer, Tape Measure, Reciprocating Saw (or hand saw).

Sharpie Marker

Claw Hammer

Tape Measure

Reciprocating Saw with metal cutting blade

reciprocating saw blades, use metal cutting type

Ridgid brand PVC pipe saw

If you don’t have a reciprocating saw, get a hacksaw, or something like this Ridgid PVC / Plastic saw costs about $20.

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Learn how I got excellent results, thick and healthy turf, and what I learned when I rented an Overseeder machine.  Seed your lawn the right way, and find out what you need for this project.

I’ve always tried to over-seed my lawn by first aerating, then mowing low, then going over the lawn with a broadcast spreader.  I now realize that’s a wasteful, ineffective way of doing it.  Over-seeding the right way means using an Overseeder machine.

What You’ll Need for the Overseeding Project:

• Rent an Overseeder Machine – I rented a “Billy Goat” brand model
• Transportation – This machine is larger than a push-mower, so you’ll need a pick-up, SUV, or roomy hatchback
  
• Buy Grass Seed – I recommend at least 5 lbs. per 1000 sq ft. of sparse lawn, or at least 3 lbs. for a maintenance seeding
• Water – Get a good sprinkler that will cover an appropriate area, and that is adjustable (they’re inexpensive)
• Lawn Mower – Mow shorter than usual before over-seeding (hopefully you usually mow at least 4″ tall)

When is the best time of year to over-seed?

Typically, Spring or Fall.  I over-seeded late fall (late September) in the north Midwest: Iowa.  I saw decent results before the frost came, but I was a little disappointed.  Now, after the long winter, by mid-Spring I am surprised by how thick and healthy the turf is.  I haven’t even fertilized since last Fall.

I’m sure you’ll still get results if you overseed in the Summer, providing you water the ever holy piss out of your lawn for 2 months or more afterward, but grass often wants to be dormant in the Summer months.

Preparation: Let’s get ready to over-seed

I decided to overseed last fall after a wet year when we got so much rain that much of the turf in my front lawn drainage ditches died.  First I plug aerated (see this article for more on lawn aeration) and then waited a couple weeks for the plugs to get broken up by mowing and worked back into the soil.  Then I mowed shorter-than-usual so the grass wouldn’t be overly thick and tangled for the Overseeder machine.

If your lawn is really dry, I recommend spending a day or two watering it very heavily to soften up that first inch of topsoil.  An over seeding machine is basically a “verti-cutter” with a hopper on it.  These vertical cutting blades will “fight” you less if they can more easily cut grooves into your lawn’s surface.

Rental:

This part is up to you.  I called my local equipment rental store and asked if they had over-seeder machines for rent.  It cost somewhere around $65/4 hours or $85/day.

Here’s a tip I usually try to employ when renting equipment:  Rent on a Saturday.  Often rental businesses aren’t open on Sundays, so you can pay for 1 day (Sat.) but then keep it Sunday at no additional charge, returning Monday morning.  I don’t do this to be underhanded, I do it when I’ve never used a piece of equipment before, and I’m insecure about how long a project will take, or what unforeseen issues may come up to add time to the process.  If I’m comfortable with a project (experienced), then I know how long it will take and can rent accordingly.

Remember:  if you don’t have a vehicle that can accommodate an Over-seeder, borrow one.

Grass Seed:

I live in Iowa, an agrarian region, which can be helpful for finding lawn-care materials at bulk-prices.  But if you live in the U.S., it shouldn’t be hard to find decent deals on grass seed no matter where you live with a lawn.  I bought 50 lbs. of grass seed in mid-September for about $35 from a corn & soy-bean dealer who didn’t want a couple bags of grass seed sitting in his warehouse all winter.  The mix was 75% Fescue, 25% Kentucky Blue Grass.  I was weary of this mix as fesuce can be more temperamental in my region than blue grass, but it worked out fine.

How much grass to purchase?

Just remember, if you’re going to spend the money to rent the equipment, don’t cheap-out on the amount of seed you buy.  Buy at least 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

This is easy to figure:

Roughly measure your home’s lot size.  Usually a lot is rectangular.  For example; If your lot is 100 feet x 150 feet (just guesstimate) then you have a 15,000 sq ft lawn.  Now minus the footprint of your house and other buildings or landscape features.  If your house is 75 ft x 30 ft, then you have about 2,000 sq ft to take from the 15,000 sq ft lot size.  I would minus out an estimate of your driveway, low evergreen trees, etc.  We’ll call it another 3,000 sq ft.

Lawn Square Footage Example Calculation:
15,000 Lot Size
- 2,000 House Footprint
- 3,000 Other Stuff (driveway, landscaping, low bushes..)
= 10,000 square feet
÷ 1,000 (figure out how many units of 1,000 square feet you have)
= 10
x 5 lbs Grass Seed
50 lbs of Grass Seed Needed for this example

If you really want to get an accurate measurement of your lot and house size, you may be able to find the information on your county or municipality’s Assessor or Property Tax website.  I can find my lot and use a “tape measure” tool to measure the property.  Here’s a screenshot of the satellite map I found:

Aerial Satellite Photo - Measure Lot Sqare Footage

One more thing about grass seed; It’s important to get enough because you may not understand what setting to put the over-seeding machine’s hopper on at first (I didn’t).  I read the instructions on the underside of the machine’s hopper lid, but those recommended settings were too liberal.  I soon realized I had sewn about half my seed on less than 1/3 of my lawn.  Try to go easy at first, start with a low setting of seed dispersion.  You can always go back over an area later, and it’s actually recommended you do – so go across the lawn in one direction, and then go across in another direction to make a crosshatch or checkerboard pattern.

Operating the Overseeder Machine

This is tricky at first.  Here’s what you want to be happening when you operate this machine:  it should be pulling you along!  There’s a knob or lever on the machine to set the depth of the cutting blades.  You want them to go about a half inch or so into the topsoil.

If it doesn’t feel like you’re being pulled by the machine, it probably means it’s not digging / cutting into the ground so there’s no friction and forward propulsion other than the motorized wheels.  Also, unless you’ve got an abnormally well graded and homogeneous lawn, there’s all sorts of small hills and valleys to consider.  This machine won’t hardly touch the soil surface in the micro-valleys, but then suddenly lurch forward as it grabs and tears into a micro-hill.  Don’t worry, you’ll get used to it.  You should go over your lawn twice anyway, so you’ll be an old pro by the second time around (providing you haven’t used all your seed up by then).

In sparser areas of your lawn (mostly dirt and dead turf) you should be able to see the grooves that have been cut for the seed to drop down into and get forced into by the machine’s blades.  In thicker-turf areas, you may not see grooves so much as evidence of de-thatching, meaning the machine is cutting through the normal mat of dead vegetation and kicking up tufts of fine straw material here and there.

Time to Water, Water, Water Some More…

This is no joke.  There is no short cut.  It must be done, otherwise you’re wasting your money and time on all the other stuff you did.  Every day that it doesn’t rain you need to soak your lawn.  You need to get home from work and start in one corner of the lawn, start your sprinkler, let it go for a half-hour or more, then move the sprinkler to the next area of your lawn.  Every Single Day for At Least One Entire Month.

If you’re not lucky enough to have a built-in sprinkler system, get a lawn and garden rotary sprayer that can be adjustable to spray within a certain area (instead of just full 360°).  I bought one at my local big-box home store for only $6 or $7.  I assumed it would break immediately at that price, but it’s been surprisingly rugged, and extremely helpful.  I recommend it because of its range and adjustability.  Mine looks a little different from the photo, but I believe it’s the same manufacturer; Nelson.

In 5 to 12 days you’re going to start seeing your little baby grasses coming up.  Keep watering, make sure they take good deep root!

After your short grass gets tall enough that you feel comfortable mowing it, go ahead and raise the height of your cutting deck to at least 4″.  The higher you mow, the better your lawn looks, the healthier your turf will be, and maybe you’ll win the Lottery, too.

If your experience with over-seeding is like mine, you may not notice the full effect for many months, if not a year.  Be patient and your reward will come.

Anything Else?

If you have questions or I forgot something, comment and let me know.  Happy Lawn Care!

Two-Bits

“Two-Bits” was named for the 2 lines of vent holes that come together to form a strange anti-pattern.  They remind me of Morse Code dots and dashes or “bits” of information streaming from a sender to a receiver.

Streaming

Streaming got its name much in the way “Two-Bits” did.  It reminds me of an orderly streaming of information bits.  This is the most austere and orderly pattern in this series.

Skulls & Robots 1

Skulls & Robots 2

Skulls & Robots got its name because I can see those 2 items in the design.   This happened by accident, because this is just a mirrored pattern (meaning I started off at the top of the design with just the 1st row of zig-zag line and little circles and pentagons, but when that was mirrored to create the symmetry, I saw what looked like stylized skulls and robots.  See the photo below, is it just me?

ROBOT & SKULL EXPLAINED

Victorian

Victorian 2

Victorian got its name because I could just see this one in an ornate, 1880′s mansion, fabricated of polished brass.

Saturn

Saturn

Saturn got its name from… well, I think it’s pretty obvious.

Saturn 2 (with Moons & Space Ship)

HVAC Custom Decorative Vent Cover - Saturn 2 (with Moons & Space Ship)

This sort of design could be fun for a child’s room, or person who enjoys Science.

Prairie 1

Prairie 2

Prairie 3

Prairie got their names from reminding me of Architect Frank Lloyd Wright.  I’ve watched documentaries about how meticulous he was with interior design.  If he designed a home, he often designed the furniture, light fixtures, etc. to complete the theme.  His style, often referred to as “Prairie School” has been compared to the Arts and Crafts Movement style.

Herring

Herring

Sunrise

Sunrise

Atomic

Atomic

Warp 1 (13 Rays) 2

Warp 1 (13 Rays)

Warp got it’s name from the spiraling aspect of the design.

By the way, I had to look up how to make a 2-D spiral sketch in SolidWorks, as the SW “Help” feature wasn’t helpful.  I was only familiar with the 3-D way of creating a helix (i.e., to create threads on a screw).  So if you’re wondering:

1. draw a circle sketch as you would with a 3-D helix,
2. then go to the “Curves” dropdown and choose helix, set the pitch and other attributes to your liking, and in that same menu, choose “Spiral” in the dropdown (so SW doesn’t assume you’re creating a 3-D helix).
3. Then start another sketch on the same plane as the spiral, but then go to the menu bar and choose  ”Tools>Sketch Tools>Convert Entities”.  This should turn the spiral into a sketch.

Bombs Away! 2

Bombs Away!

Bombs Away!

Bombs Away! 2

Does my wife want her cat to have a house?  Well, she suggested I make one repeatedly until I decided to do so.

This post will include pictures of the house I made for our kitty, some tips I learned from building the prototype,  and technical drawings I created in SolidWorks (available for download).  If you’re the least bit handy, you can put one of these together.

Cat House Rendering

Cat House Rendering (Back View)

Above are rendered mock-ups of the cat house I designed in “SolidWorks,” a 3D CAD program.

My research for making a CH consisted of Googling “Cat House,” which brings up some interesting links not necessarily related to felines.  The main thing I learned is: Cats like “cozy” dwellings.  It’s good to have an area big enough for your cat to turn around in, and not much larger.  This way the space is small enough for the cat to warm with their body heat.

I also wanted to build something that most pieces would be “board width” (usually between 11″ and 11 3/4″) so that I could keep cuts to a minimum.  I’m a guy with a compound miter saw, a hand-held jig saw, power drill, circular saw, and little else.  To build this, I had to borrow the use of a router table with a “rabbet” bit, a sander, and a table saw.  Which leads us to the Tools List.

Tools (that I) needed for this project:

• Table Saw
• Miter Saw (unless you make the rafter cuts w/ a table saw)
• Jig Saw (for the Door and Window arches, and a couple other cuts)
• Drill
• Router with Rabbet bit (for the window arch’s plexiglass inset)
• Wood Chisel (for the hinges I used, which aren’t necessary)
• Caulk gun
• Sander (Random-Orbital or Detail)

Materials needed for this project:
(Bill Of Materials incl. in Drawings)

• Wood Planks – About 25 board ft.
• Plexiglass – Small piece
• Hinge(s)
• Handle/drawer pull
• Screws – 1 1/4″ deck screws
• Paint – About a half-gallon
• Caulk
• Sand Paper Discs
• Pet Heating Pad

To download the plans for this project, click this link:
Cat House Drawing.

Cat House Build Plans and Instructions Drawing

Cat House Building Tips:

• The middle rafter was found to need a more severe cut-out than originally planned.  I cut it with an arc instead of its current “Upside-down-V” shape, but when I tested it with the cat, she was bumping her back on it and clearly felt overly-cramped.
• The vent slot on the back rafter is optional.  It is the size of a computer slot fan, and can be wired to 110 voltage via a transformer.  Do this at your own risk (and let me know how it turns out if you do it).  I ended up shoving a towel in the vent hole during the coldest months so the cat’s body heat would keep it cozy.
• You will need to figure out your own way to fasten the top of the cat house to the bottom.  I cut three 2″x1″s (1 for each side wall, 1 for the front wall, and none for the back wal) and used these to screw into from the top of the 2nd floor and the side walls of the 1st floor.
• If you live in a climate like mine (upper Midwest), then you’ll need a “Pet Bed Warmer” pad.  Since this pet house is small (about 10″ wide), I bought the K & H brand warming pad.  A photo is shown above.
• Use whatever works for the back door hinges.  I used what I had on hand from a bucket-full that my Grandfather left behind.  I believe they’re some kind of cabinet hinge, and they worked out great because they swing out enough to clear the roof overhang.  That’s another thing:
• Make sure to have 1″ (or less) of roof overhang in the back of the CH, because it will interfere with the back door otherwise.
• Cutting the miter angle for the roof pieces was a bit tricky, so take your time and think it through.  Don’t use the drawing’s angles as a guide, figure out the angle yourself, because it’s probably not exactly as I drew it up.
• If you try this project and have any other questions, just comment and I’ll do my best to answer.