![\"Submersible](\"http:\/\/krisbunda.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/Simer-submersible-sump-pump-silver.jpg\" "\\"Simer-submersible-sump-pump-silver\\"")
<\/a><\/a>What’s the difference between these pumps?<\/h4>\n
Pedestals are less expensive than submersibles. \u00a0They’re louder because the motor sticks up above most sump holes, making it difficult to put a lid on the sump hole.<\/p>\n
Pedestals typically wear out sooner because the motor is air cooled, whereas the submersible has cool groundwater surrounding it to dissipate heat through.<\/p>\n
Do you see the long float switch on the pedestal pump with the little guide-arm in the middle? \u00a0Yeah, that gets bent easily, and then the float gets stuck either up or down, both of which renders the pump useless.<\/p>\n
Some people only care about lowest price, which is silly. \u00a0For the rest of us, the price details as I’ve found them are as follows:<\/strong><\/p>\n A good submersible, 1\/2 to 3\/4 HP, 4600 Gallons Per Hour, Lifetime Guarantee (yes, lifetime) should run between $160 and $200 on sale.<\/p>\n A pedestal should be somewhere between $75 and $120. \u00a0In other words, submersibles are twice as much as pedestals, but worth it in my opinion.<\/p>\n Click here for a printable PDF Shopping Checklist to take to the hardware store.<\/a><\/p>\n Sharpie Marker, Hammer, Tape Measure, Reciprocating Saw (or hand saw).<\/strong><\/p>\n If you don’t have a reciprocating saw, get a hacksaw, or something like this Ridgid PVC \/ Plastic saw costs about $20.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n I hope you didn’t get all the way to the home store without looking at your project, evaluating the twists and turns your piping is going to take, and writing down a reasonable tally of PVC sections, elbows, and connectors to purchase.<\/p>\n Get your tape measure out and think about where you want to run your pipe, and then count every time you have to make a corner or join 2 pieces of straight pipe (PVC pipes come in 10 feet or 5 feet sections). \u00a0Its easy to think of 90\u00b0 elbows… but do you have sections where you’ll need 45\u00b0 or 60\u00b0 elbows? \u00a0Try to figure it out now so you don’t have to run back to the store. \u00a0If you get too many pieces, you can always bring them back for a refund.<\/p>\n Get 1.5″ diameter Schedule 40 PVC Pipe.<\/p>\n An adapter like this will screw into your sump-pump, and then you can glue PVC pipe into the other end. \u00a0Wrap the threads with Teflon tape if you have any.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n This comes in 2 separate containers. \u00a0You paint the primer on both mating surfaces and let it dry, which it does very quickly. \u00a0It’s also usually dyed so you can see where you’ve applied it. \u00a0Keep this away from any clothes or furnishings that you don’t want ruined.<\/p>\n Next you paint the “cement” on both mating surfaces (which should be stained with dye already) and push the pieces together, twist, and hold them tight for a few seconds<\/em>. \u00a0A chemical reaction is going on here. \u00a0The two pieces of pipe are becoming one. \u00a0They also may try to push each other apart for some reason, which is why you should apply pressure to push them together until they’ve bonded, which won’t take more than 10 seconds.<\/p>\n Maybe you’ve heard it referred to as a “Backflow Preventer”. \u00a0Whatever you want to call it, it helps make sure that water doesn’t get pumped up through your pipes, but then doesn’t make it all the way out of your house and so runs back down through the pump to refill your sump hole. \u00a0With a check valve, water goes out, but it cannot come back. \u00a0It’s a one way street.<\/p>\n Notice the arrow on the side of the valve; it indicates which way the water is supposed to go, and after it passes this valve it can’t go backwards. \u00a0I placed my check valve right after the pump. \u00a0First the threaded piece, then a short piece of pipe, then the check valve.<\/p>\n This piece is a must for a couple of different reasons. \u00a0First, it allows you to undo the connection so you can remove or replace your pump in the future. \u00a0Second, it’s a noise dampener.<\/p>\n Take it from me, when I first hard piped my pump it was extremely loud. \u00a0In fact, it was a quieter operation standing right next to the sump hole than when I was on my main floor. \u00a0This has something to do with all that pipe creating an acoustic amplifier, not to mention the piping ran up underneath a stair case, alongside a main HVAC duct, across some floor joists, and out the band joist of my house. \u00a0There’s a lot of opportunities to create an auditory cacophony in that run. \u00a0I sawed a pipe apart and reconnected it with a flexible connector, and the noise all but disappeared.<\/p>\n I like the plastic hangers, but you can get the metal ones also. \u00a0These are to nail to floor joists and 2×4 studs. \u00a0If for some reason you don’t have this sort of structure to nail to, you’ll have to figure something else out to support pipe runs.<\/p>\n Support can be as simple as a nail with wire hanging off it, tied around the PVC pipe. \u00a0This may not be up to code, but it’s what I found in my current house, and it worked for at least 20 years before I redid it.<\/p>\n Work back from the wall to the sump hole. \u00a0I’ve written this post under the assumption that you’re replacing your pump with a new one, and there’s a certain amount of hard piping in place that allows water to leave your house, whether through a hole in the band joist or basement wall. \u00a0My advice is to work back from this\u00a0to your sump hole, wherever you feel it’s a good spot to cut in and start gluing on new pipe. \u00a0This is because your sump hole probably provides more wiggle room to make your pipe run than a right-sized hole in brick or joist material.<\/p>\n It’s not brain surgery. \u00a0Just get your tape-measure, measure twice, cut once. \u00a0If you actually need your pump to turn on often and regularly to keep water out of your foundation, then make sure you’ve got your project laid out well enough that you can glue and reconnect everything in time to turn the pump back on before groundwater floods onto your basement floor. \u00a0I turned my pump on immediately after gluing the last pipes together, and it didn’t cause any leaks or failure.<\/p>\n And if your water issues are critically pressing even for only the Spring rainy season each year, I would strongly suggest having more than 1 sump pump.<\/p>\n How To – Plumbing – PVC Pipe – Submersible Sump Pump – Installation<\/a><\/p>\nGot the Pump. \u00a0What Else?<\/h3>\n
<\/a>The Usual Stuff:<\/h4>\n
<\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a>
\nPVC Pipe & Connectors:<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a>
\nPVC Glue:<\/h4>\n
<\/a>Check Valve:<\/h4>\n
<\/a>Flexible Connector:<\/h4>\n
<\/a>PVC Pipe Hangers:<\/h4>\n
<\/a>So Now That I Bought Everything, How Do I Install?<\/h3>\n
Video of My Hard Piped Submersible Sump Pump:<\/h3>\n